How to Survive Summer in Italy

Cinque Terre Italy in Summer

Diving off a yacht into the brilliantly blue Mediterranean, sipping a spritz at sunset, and getting lost in cobblestone alleys is the summer in Italy on your social media feeds. The reality? Sweating through your sheets in an AC-less hotel, getting stranded during train strikes, and fighting elbow-to-elbow crowds just to see a fountain.

Visiting Italy in July or August can be a mixed bag, with intense peak-season crowds and blistering Mediterranean heat. But you don’t have to cancel your trip. To enjoy it without melting or burning out, you just need to know a few things. Consider this your guide to surviving and thriving on a summer vacation to Italy.

Check the Air Conditioning in Your Accommodation

When booking a larger hotel, you might assume that air conditioning is a given, but in Italy, it’s definitely not. Many older hotels don’t have AC, so be sure to filter by air conditioning when searching for accommodation and double check the hotel’s website to make sure it’s listed as an amenity before booking. 

Even in well-known hotel chains in Italy, you may not be able to turn the air conditioning down as low as you would at home due to European energy regulations. Read user reviews carefully before booking (do a quick search within TripAdvisor or booking platforms for the phrase “air conditioning”) or explicitly request a fan for your room upon arrival.

If you’re staying at a vacation rental, be aware that many listings advertise air conditioning but only have one minisplit in the living room, which isn’t helpful when you’re trying to sleep in a sweltering bedroom in the middle of a heatwave.

Avoid the Crowds

Summer crowds in Italy

Monitor when cruise ships will be in port in the places you’re visiting and try to structure your sightseeing around those windows. Cruise ships can disgorge thousands of day-trippers simultaneously into tiny coastal towns (like the Cinque Terre or Amalfi), creating absolute nightmare crowding situations between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM. Most major ports will have a website showing the cruise ship schedule, or you can check CruiseMapper to see exactly how many ships will be docked near you on any given day. Definitely take these schedules into consideration when you’re planning out your day trips.

Make Reservations Early

There’s certainly plenty of room for spontaneity on a summer trip to Italy, but not when it comes to reservations. Especially in small towns with limited dining options, you’ll definitely need to make dinner reservations in advance in order to secure a table. Museum tours, beach chairs, and attractions should all be booked as early as possible.

Be Alert for Pickpockets

Venice Italy in summer

Crowded tourist hubs, packed train stations, and popular public transit routes are prime targets for opportunistic pickpockets. 

Keep your bags zipped, carry your backpack on your front when boarding trains or entering crowds, and never put your phone or wallet in your back pocket. Consider a crossbody bag with anti-theft zippers for peace of mind. If you’re taking a train between destinations, try to book a seat near the luggage storage area so you can keep an eye on your suitcase (thieves are known to run off with suitcases) or put it in the rack above your head (trains can usually fit a carry-on suitcase but not a checked bag up there) and watch it at every station. Or, for peace of mind, use a bike lock to secure your suitcase to the rack.

Choose Your Trains Wisely

Trenitalia Train Italy

Italy’s national railway company, Trenitalia, is a great way to travel around the country without the stress of renting a car. Unfortunately, it’s practically an Italian tradition for trains (and buses, and public transit) to go on strike in the summer. 

Transit strikes are always planned in advance, so keep an eye on the news to find out if there are any that could impact your trip. During a strike, there are certain trains that are guaranteed to run, even if there’s a strike. (See the list here.) It may be worth choosing one of those trains when you’re booking to avoid any issues. 

Download the Trenitalia app ahead of time, so you can check the train statuses in real time. 

More importantly, if a strike or delay happens, the app lets you quickly change or rebook your ticket from your phone without having to stand in a massive, chaotic line at the station ticket windows.

Beware of the Midday “Riposo” Closures

Outside of the massive tourist hubs like downtown Rome or Florence, Italy still honors the riposo or la pausa, a midday closure where shops, family-run restaurants, and pharmacies shut down between 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM so workers can eat lunch and escape the peak heat. Plan your shopping and dining around this window.

Hydrate and Have Coins

Lemon drink in Italy

You need to drink lots of water to cope with the intense summer heat, but all that hydration brings a secondary challenge: finding a restroom. Many public restrooms in Italian train stations and squares require payment at turnstiles to enter.

They rarely take credit cards, and the change machines are frequently broken. Always keep a pocket full of small €0.50, €1, and €2 coins specifically for bathroom access.

Don’t Order an Iced Coffee

Caffe shakerato Italy

If you ask for an “iced coffee” in a traditional Italian bar, you will likely get a judgemental stare. Instead, look for local summer specialties on the menu:

  • Caffè Shakerato: Fresh espresso shaken vigorously with ice and a touch of sugar in a cocktail shaker, served frothy in a martini glass.
  • Caffè Freddo: A sweetened espresso that is chilled or partially frozen into a slushy texture.

Drink it standing up at the bar like the locals do to avoid the coperto (table seating fee) charged at outdoor tables.

Dress for the Monuments, Not Just the Weather

It is incredibly tempting to wear short-shorts and tank tops when it is 95°F outside, but Italy’s major churches (including the Vatican and the Duomo in Florence) strictly enforce a dress code: shoulders and knees must be covered. Security will turn you away at the door if you’re not dressed modestly.

If just thinking about wearing long pants in the heat makes you hot, keep a lightweight linen shirt or a large sarong in your daypack. You can quickly wrap it around your shoulders or waist before stepping inside, then pack it away once you’re back out in the sun.

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Caroline Teel
Caroline Teel

Caroline has traveled to all seven continents, jumped out of planes, and bungeed off bridges in the pursuit of a good story. She loves exploring off-the-beaten path destinations, anything outdoorsy, and all things adventure. Her stories have also appeared online at USA Today, Business Insider, Huffington Post, Yahoo, Boston.com, TripAdvisor, Buzzfeed, Jetsetter, SmarterTravel, Oyster, Airfarewatchdog, and others.

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