If your idea of a perfect summer weekend involves cycling along a path suspended over open water, hiking Vermont’s famously beautiful trails, drinking coffee in bed while the sun comes up over the lake, or sampling your way through the state’s best craft brews and maple creemees, Burlington, Vermont has you covered. This small but mighty city sits on the shores of Lake Champlain, a 435-square-mile lake fringed by New York’s Adirondack Mountains, and strikes the perfect mix of outdoor adventure and urban amenities. Follow our itinerary for the perfect trip to the Queen City.
Friday
On the drive up to Burlington, break up the trip with a hike on Mount Abraham, a relatively easy trek that takes about 4 hours round trip and crosses Vermont’s iconic Long Trail, a 272-mile path running from the state’s southern border to the Canadian border. At the summit, you’re rewarded with 360-degree views of the Green Mountains and Lake Champlain. If you’d rather check in first, the trailhead is about an hour’s drive from Burlington, as are some of Vermont’s other iconic peaks, including Camel’s Hump and Mt. Mansfield.
Check into The Harborvale, which has a prime location in downtown Burlington on the shores of Lake Champlain, and make the most of it with a Lakeview King Room overlooking the water and the mountains beyond. If you’re feeling ambitious, wake up early to watch the sunrise over the lake with your coffee; if a 6 a.m. start isn’t in the cards, the sailboats bobbing under the afternoon sun look just as good from the couch by the picture windows. Either way, it’s the kind of view that sets the mood for the whole stay. The rooms themselves are spacious and comfortable, with cozy sitting areas, and the staff is warm and welcoming. There’s also an indoor pool if Lake Champlain proves too chilly for a swim.
Reserve a table at The Harborvale, the hotel’s on-site restaurant, ideally by the window overlooking the lake, and time your meal for sunset: the bar has a charming tradition of ringing a bell as the sun goes down to mark the end of another day in Burlington, with a special sunset drink on offer every night. Hotel restaurants can feel generic, but this was the best meal I had in Burlington, which says a lot given how much of a culinary destination the city has become in recent years. Chef Doug Paine leans on seasonal ingredients from local farms, and on my visit, the special appetizer was cantaloupe with Calabrian chili crunch and goat cheese. I’d only ever had cantaloupe in fruit salad, where it’s usually hard and flavorless, but our waitress talked me into trying it, and it changed my mind completely: sliced thin and perfectly ripe, the cantaloupe was intensely flavorful, and its sweetness played beautifully against the salty goat cheese. I’m still thinking about it days later, though I know grocery-store cantaloupe will only disappoint by comparison. The cocktail list was just as strong, and the espresso martini, made with freshly roasted local coffee, was the best I’ve had in recent memory.
Read our full review of The Harborvale here.
Saturday
Start with coffee in bed watching boats glide by on Lake Champlain, then head to the Burlington Farmers Market for a brunch smorgasbord. Open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on summer Saturdays, the market brings together vendors serving hearty breakfasts, pastries, coffee, and local produce, along with souvenirs like local honey and maple syrup to bring home.
Borrow bikes from The Harborvale and ride the Island Line Trail, a roughly 14-mile car-free path that winds along the water. The most memorable stretch crosses the Colchester Causeway with water on both sides, making it one of the most unique bike paths I’ve ridden, though the trail ends abruptly at a 200-foot gap in the causeway. From there, you can turn around and ride back, or take the Local Motion bike ferry across to keep going. The ferry runs on donations ($5 one-way, $10 round-trip suggested), and it’s worth checking the last-ferry time so you don’t get stranded (5 p.m. on weekdays, 6 p.m. on summer weekends). I rode out from downtown Burlington to the causeway but skipped the ferry since the line was long; it only holds about 20 people and their bikes, so you may wait a few trips to board. My round trip came to 20 miles. I’ve taken the ferry on a previous visit, but the trail doesn’t continue far on the other side, so it’s up to you whether the wait is worth it. If you do decide to cross over, there’s a cute farm, Allenholm Farm, that you can cycle to for creemees, though most of that stretch is quiet residential streets rather than a dedicated bike path.
On the ride back into town, stop for a swim at one of Lake Champlain’s beach access points. I like Texaco Beach for the sandy shore, and it’s not too crowded if you walk past the main amenities. Dry off and head to Foam Brewers for a drink and a Vermont cheese plate on the patio overlooking the lake, then either take cans back to your hotel room for a magical sunset overlooking the water, or head to the lively Spot on the Dock to watch it with others.
Finish off your day with dinner at Hen of the Woods, one of Vermont’s best-known restaurants, celebrated for farm-to-table food that changes daily based on what’s available within a few miles.
Sunday
If you’ve packed your patience, or you’re an early riser, get breakfast at August First Bakery, but be warned that lines can be extremely long on weekend mornings. A mobile order is your best bet, but they often turn that option off when it’s busy. If it’s too crowded, try Henry’s Diner, a classic American diner set in an old train car.
Take a stroll up and down Church Street, Burlington’s pedestrian brick main drag, and pop into the boutiques for local finds. Once you’ve had your shopping fix, walk along the water to the Lake Champlain Sailing Center and rent a kayak to get out on the lake one last time before heading home, paddling down to Lone Rock for views of the city and the mountains.
On the drive out of town, stop at Dakin Farm in South Burlington for one last maple creemee. I haven’t filled out the Vermont Creemee Passport, but I’ve tried the top-rated ones around the state, and this is still my favorite, with a rich, dark maple flavor combined with a perfectly creamy texture. It’s also a good spot to pick up maple syrup, cheese, candy, or other local souvenirs to bring home.
